11/10/2023 0 Comments Graphic sweatshirts aesthetic![]() At Chanel, the women would walk to the end of the catwalk, spin around, pout – and a lot of that has just gone.” A show should be an immersive experience. It shouldn’t be about what celebrities and influencers turn up. Skepta, who has featured on GQ magazine’s Best Dressed list, has vivid memories of Karl Lagerfeld’s catwalk theatrics – he was in the front row at the Chanel show in 2017 when a rocket launched within the Grand Palais – but feels that “the fashion show has been in decline for a minute now. Photograph: Eamonn M McCormack/Getty Images The M on this bomber jacket in ivory bouclé was hand-embroidered by Skepta himself. It’s the music that brings the goosebumps.” ![]() The running order is set to three tracks, so music defines the shape of the show. That comes from the music as well as the clothes. “A show needs flair, it needs pizzazz, it needs chic. “Doing a show elevates everything,” says Johnson. The revival was originally intended as a drop of one perfect denim suit, but the vision kept on expanding until it became a full collection – and Skepta’s first catwalk show. Mains was first launched in 2017, but entered a four-year hiatus because “we got ourselves in a bad situation with a company we were working with”, Skepta said. At the end of the show, Pearce and Johnson joined Skepta and his four-year-old daughter, River, on the catwalk to take a bow. Tupac’s leather vest was reimagined in indigo denim, his oversized cap in soft felt, and his mugshot reproduced as an intarsia knit on a sweater. There were musical references, as well as fashion ones. “The pieces are fantasy and magic in my head,” said Skepta. Having a knowledge of fashion is more important than being able to pattern cut or use a sewing machine.” I think that to be a good creative director you need a vision, and the ability to make clear decisions. He can talk about a 90s Moschino look, the cut of a Marni sweater. “With anything in my life, if I’m in the room I want to be hands on.” Pearce describes his boss as “an encyclopedia of fashion. ![]() “You know what? Turns out I love fabric shopping,” says Skepta. A fantasy skyscape melding Ocean Drive with Manhattan, sketched on paper by Skepta, appeared on the catwalk reproduced in white stitched embroidery on a denim suit. “How it works is that the pieces are fantasy and magic in my head, and then Mikey and Johnson articulate them so that they makes sense as garments,” says the designer, who names Virgil Abloh, Alexander McQueen, Martine Rose and Daniel Lee as his fashion heroes. This year, Louis Vuitton raised eyebrows with the appointment of Pharrell Williams as creative director of menswear. The 40-year-old is one of a new wave of figures who lead design studios without traditional training. Tupac’s mugshot was reproduced as an intarsia knit.
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